I'm alive guys... Sorry for being gone for more than 1/2 a year. Been focusing on a few areas of personal growth and just didn't have the stomach for warhammer/scale models. Thanks to a few friends who knocked some sense into me and told me I shouldn't give up on what I like doing.
I spoke to enrgie about my hiatus with warhammer.
I will instead try to focus on modeling techniques/custom builds. I'm sure some of these techniques can be migrated to painting tabletop minis as well. Sorry if the spacing of this is all messed up...
1. for doing metallics, use Mr. surfacer 1000-1500 as a primer. the higher grit means smoother the surface and thus the final top layer will be more reflective. This is the grey paint u see on the completed model
2. (airbrush) for golds, I used a rose gold/copper color as the foundation. I then worked on successive layers of clear yellow mixed with a 1:8 ratio of fluorescent pink. Reason for this is the fluorescent pink gives the gold an extra bite. That tiny bit of fluorescent pink makes the final surface stand out much more than without it.
Tips: -when working with airbrush and enamels (oil based paints)you must add thinner into the vile first followed by color. The paint mixes better this way. -paint consistency should be similar to milk, to easily mix paints, turn your airbrush pump to .5lbs PSI, hold you finger over the nozzle to form an airseal, depress the trigger and you will hear the paint bubble inside. Do this for about 1 min. Metallic paints tend to need more time to fully mix.
-NEVER AIRBRUSH ENAMEL PAINTS ON A HUMID DAY!!! you nozzle will spray out spider webs if too humid.
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I will instead try to focus on modeling techniques/custom builds. I'm sure some of these techniques can be migrated to painting tabletop minis as well. Sorry if the spacing of this is all messed up...
1. for doing metallics, use Mr. surfacer 1000-1500 as a primer. the higher grit means smoother the surface and thus the final top layer will be more reflective. This is the grey paint u see on the completed model
2. (airbrush) for golds, I used a rose gold/copper color as the foundation. I then worked on successive layers of clear yellow mixed with a 1:8 ratio of fluorescent pink. Reason for this is the fluorescent pink gives the gold an extra bite. That tiny bit of fluorescent pink makes the final surface stand out much more than without it.
Tips: -when working with airbrush and enamels (oil based paints)you must add thinner into the vile first followed by color. The paint mixes better this way. -paint consistency should be similar to milk, to easily mix paints, turn your airbrush pump to .5lbs PSI, hold you finger over the nozzle to form an airseal, depress the trigger and you will hear the paint bubble inside. Do this for about 1 min. Metallic paints tend to need more time to fully mix.
-NEVER AIRBRUSH ENAMEL PAINTS ON A HUMID DAY!!! you nozzle will spray out spider webs if too humid.
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Glad to see you back in the mix but Gundam sure is out there! LOL! Where are your 40k models man? I love your work on the large models. Get those out!
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